Oxfordshire and its surrounds are famous for outstanding food and hospitality: from farms, growers and markets to cafes, pubs and restaurants. We are delighted to have the chance to feature some of the very best.
History buffs may be tickled to learn that The Greyhound Inn, just outside Wantage in Letcombe Regis, claims to be the place where the Riot Act was last formally read, to a group of ‘unruly stable lads’ by the pub’s steps. Little fear of unruly behaviour by locals these days, the Greyhound Inn has firmly embedded itself in the heart of the community since it was taken over by villagers Catriona Galbraith and Martyn Reed. Between them, they’ve sympathetically restored this sprawling building with its myriad rooms and corridors and have managed to marry the tradition of a picture-book pretty village pub with the notable hallmarks of modern luxury. They’ve also pulled off a blinder in hiring James Cameron as their General Manager. We couldn’t have been made to feel more welcome on a blustery Wednesday evening in October.
The interior is cosy without being cluttered. In the bar and dining areas, seating is well spaced and comfortable. Art lines the walls alongside chalk boards crammed with information on local beers and the Wines of the Moment – limited edition wines by the glass which, if they prove popular, may well ‘graduate’ to the carefully curated wine list. Upstairs, the rooms – each named for a place of local interest – have clearly been conceived by someone who knows what we all really want from a hotel stay: comfortable beds, clean cotton sheets, plenty of well-placed sockets, lots of hanging space, a full-length mirror in the bedroom and de-misting mirrors in the bathrooms, all of which are tastefully stocked with Bramley toiletries. Topping the list of thoughtful touches is the hospitality tray with its Kilner jar of homemade shortbread and – best of all in my opinion – actual mugs (not measly cups) for your morning cuppa.
Having thoroughly inspected the rooms (we were in the Lambourn suite which also has a small, separate lounge area) we went down to bar to be greeted by another James. This one works the bar and clearly knows his onions – or should that be grapes – when it comes to recommending the ideal wine to pair with chef John Harrison’s assured menu. We were tempted by the opportunity to sample the best bitter, one of a rotating cask of real ales, but a bottle of elegant Viognier was more than enough for us on a school night.
Back to the menu, which although not massively extensive offered plenty of choice and much dilemma. The options ranged from pub classics to a selection of other dishes which revealed more about the chef at the helm. There was a good amount of meat dishes, lots of fish, and some really good selections for vegetarian or vegan diners. We went for the crispy duck egg on its bed of velvety celeriac velouté, and the pheasant and partridge rillettes, accompanied by sharp pickled chicory and a sweetly spiced pear chutney. Both were excellent and I will admit we were scooping up the final traces of that velouté with our fingers. Shocking behaviour in public, but neither of us wanted one scrap to go to waste.
Onto the mains, pan-fried hake with roast salsify and heritage carrots, and roasted chicken breast, plus shared sides of skinny fries and garlicky green beans.
The hake flaked beautifully and was delicious, served in a creamy sauce strewn with strands of samphire giving little saline pops of freshness. However, as good as this was, the star of the show was my chicken, which I rarely order when I’m eating out but the thought of a roasted breast of chicken served up with chicken-fat mash, slow cooked leeks and onion felt like what my soul was craving that night. The glorious comforting flavours and mouthfeel of juicy chicken and perfect mash was made into a fine dining experience when presented with a little tartlet filled with meltingly soft, sweet onion and a puree of leek. I subsequently learned that this was the dish which had secured John his job at the Greyhound Inn, and it’s been on the menu ever since.
Puddings were equally splendid. What could be nicer than red wine poached pear? How about a seasonal vegan pumpkin sponge which was so good that when John came to say hello after our meal I begged him to share the recipe.
After a great night’s sleep, we were eagerly anticipating breakfast – bit greedy, I know. There’s a full buffet of fruits, yoghurt, cheese, meats, cereals and pastries to whet your appetite but approach this with caution because you’ll want to keep some room for the cooked options. Again, there’s real choice here, including kedgeree, shakshuka and my personal favourite; French toast with crisp bacon and maple syrup. As we pondered we could hear the other guests’ murmurings of appreciation which swayed us first one way and then another.
We eventually chose the full English and smoked Arbroath kipper plump from being poached in milk and served with lemony, parsley butter and toasted sourdough. Each component of the full English has clearly been sourced from the best of the best. A fantastic Bampton Royal sausage, flavourful smoked bacon, herbed tomato and squishy buttery mushroom, with a wedge of home-made black pudding and golden-yolked Arlington White eggs. The accompanying toast was so good I begged the kitchen to let me buy a loaf to take home.
I truly think this was one of the best fry-ups I have ever had, and I don’t know how I managed to follow it by sampling one of the patisserie (croissant) but I did and I have no regrets. It, too, was exceptional.
The food – and drinks – at the Greyhound Inn are so good it is well worth booking a room if you're dining there. Not only would that allow you to fully appreciate the excellent choice of gin, wine and beer as you eat, but if you stay the night you also get that marvellous breakfast included in the room rate.
For more information on November’s events at the pub, or to book a table or one of the eight bedrooms, visit thegreyhoundletcome.co.uk.
