Oxfordshire and its surrounds are famous for outstanding food and hospitality: from farms, growers and markets to cafes, pubs and restaurants. We are delighted to have the chance to feature some of the very best.
Since The Store opened on the former site of Boswells it has become my go-to place to meet friends. Squishy velvet sofas, friendly staff, delicious coffee and a relaxed yet luxurious vibe (reluxed?). There’s also the possibility of spotting an A-lister amongst the mix of glamorous guests and locals hanging out in the lounge or slipping through to retreat down to the spa. I’ve also cocktailed on the roof (those views!) and dined at Treadwell, the hotel’s modern British restaurant, so I didn’t need asking twice if I would like to go along to review the new Spring menu.
What both Treadwell and The Store do exceptionally well is create ambience. On a Friday night the well-lit restaurant was buzzing; tables filled with groups and couples, clearly here for the good times. We were welcomed to our table and soon settled in with a bottle of the excellent house white. Next time, I plan to take advantage of the fact that both Veuve Cliquot and Hundred Hills can be ordered by the glass and also spend a little more time perusing the wine list. I noticed a good looking Gavi, a Puglian Primitivo, and an organic Rose but the white Chenin Blanc was nonetheless a great option for our group of three.
We turned our attention to the menu. Each of the starters sounded tempting and so we elected to choose three and share, which – with the generous portions provided – proved no hardship. Kimchi and Cheese Croquettes sound slightly unlikely but was a surprising (to us) success. Crispy outside, molten (but not scorching) in the middle – “I could eat ten of these alone” – the sour notes cutting through the creamy interior to enhance the tangy cheesy flavour. Tuna Tartare served up on an avocado puree infused with ponzu, black garlic and truffle oil converted my raw fish naysayer guests in one bite. Meltingly soft, fresh fish balanced against smoky, seductive warmth with morsels of deep-fried shallots for added crunch. The Crispy Lamb Belly, I have to confess, had each of us licking our knives and then fighting to run our fingers around the plate to scoop up every scrap of the harissa yoghurt sauce. Served alongside an apple and fennel slaw and dotted with pink pickled onions it was an exemplar of the four pillars of culinary success: salt, fat, acid, heat.
There’s a very convivial atmosphere in the restaurant and when our mains arrived we were eager to continue sharing and so our dishes were placed in the middle of the table, and side plates provided without us having to ask. I should say at this point that, throughout the evening, our glasses were topped up, tap water was brought and conversation was enjoyed with the wait staff who were utterly delightful. Attentive without being intrusive.
Although there are veget-and-pescatarian options on the menu – including a magnificent-sounding Harissa Braised Cauliflower, The Store’s ale-battered fish and chips and Tuna Steak from the Grill menu – carnivores are spoiled for choice at Treadwell. For mains we went full meat. Fillet steak Tagliata was heaped in juicy pink slices on mounds of rocket and seasoned with shavings of parmesan and the punch of chimichurri sauce, all served up with a decadent slab of toasted garlic bread. The Steak Frites was equally flavoursome, marinated in thyme and garlic and topped with a perfect quenelle of miso onion butter melting into the beef. Our third dish was Pork Schnitzel presented on a faultless soubise sauce and generously topped with capers, sliced black olive and chunks of fresh tomato. Mum, if you’re reading, I know you’re the schnitzel queen, but this was a strong competitor for the crown.
It was around this point that a second bottle of wine was ordered and so perhaps this explains why I can’t remember who ordered the extra side of hot umami-rich truffle fries, but it was a sterling move.
Almost, but not quite defeated, we finished the meal with one pud – Eton Mess – and three spoons. Here tradition has been deconstructed to perfection. A rich white chocolate panna cotta had all the indulgence of sweetened condensed milk plus marinated and freeze-dried strawberries and shards of meringue. The next morning in that liminal time between slumber and wakefulness, I found myself reflecting on just how a dish comprising of three such sweet things (panna cotta + strawberry + meringue) could have been so expertly balanced. Yes, it was sweet – it was a dessert, after all – but it is testament to the expertise in Treadwell’s kitchen that the combination swerved sickly and instead remained memorable and delicious. The perfect end to a pretty perfect night.
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Treadwell have kindly shared a recipe from their on-trend spring menu.
“Kimchi is having a moment thanks to its bold, fermented flavour – it brings heat, tang, and umami all at once, making it perfect for adding depth to familiar formats like croquettes. Once found mostly on specialist shelves, it’s now popping up in everyday supermarkets. At Treadwell, we’ve brought it together with mature cheddar and Parmesan in croquette form for the new spring menu. Crisp on the outside, soft and savoury inside – it’s bold, seasonal comfort food with a twist.”
Kimchi and Cheese Croquettes
Ingredients:
400g plain flour
400g butter
1300ml cold milk
400g cheddar
150g parmesan
400g chopped kimchi
1 tsp fine salt
2 eggs
200g flour
200g Panko breadcrumbs
- Chop the kimchi and place to side
- Melt butter in pan and add flour, then mix and cook gently for two minutes.
- Gradually add milk to the roux until fully incorporated, whilst whisking.
- Once all the milk is added, gradually add both cheeses until fully smooth.
- Add salt and fold kimchi through, then leave in fridge to cool down and firm up.
- Portion into 30g balls.
- Dip the croquettes into the flour, then the egg and then into the panko breadcrumbs.
- Place in fridge until using ,then fry on the stove top with the oil at 180c for two minutes.
