What makes a great pub? The exact details are always subjective, but it can’t be denied that a great pub starts with a great pint, and our stay at the Bear & Ragged Staff in Cumnor did just that. A pint of well-kept Abingdon Bridge bitter, from Loose Cannon, the Abingdon-based brewery, and an icy G&T.
Cumnor is a brilliant location for visitors to Oxford. Just four miles out of the city centre, with easy public transport to take you into town and miles of glorious walking on the doorstep. The Thames Path National Trail is within easy reach and Farmoor’s magnificent reservoir nearby. Anyone looking to spend a couple of days here would be delighted with their choice – and any local visitors would be equally pleased to dine here and perhaps spoil themselves with an overnight stay to make the most of the aforementioned pints, impressive range of cocktails, and considered wine lists. After a while, it’s easy to feel at home thanks to the attentive yet relaxed service from a staff who are patently proud of their workplace, and eager to ensure you get the most from your visit.
Our room for the night was the premium king room, which is sited in the main building (noise is minimal), with its own private door from the bar. Up the winding wooden staircase is a beautifully designed and generously proportioned space which combines modern amenities with genuine historic charm. Think leaded light windows and beams in the bedroom but also double sinks and a full-length mirror in the bathroom. More poking about revealed fluffy robes, an iron, a heater and a fan, as well as the latest Nespresso machine on the hospitality tray, bottled milk, and both mugs and cups for late night or early morning cuppas. In fact, the attention to detail throughout is commendable.
Downstairs, the pub has different areas to explore: a traditional cosy bar complete with inglenook fireplace adorned with polished brasses, a light and lovely conservatory, a decked outside seating area, and a green-lawned beer garden. We went into the dining area/restaurant and were soon seated in a comfortable booth, provided with menus and a carafe of tap water (which was kept topped up throughout the evening).
After the usual negotiations involved in making our dinner choices (‘if I get this and you get that, can I try yours?’), we went for garlic king prawns and the chicken and ham terrine from the specials board to start, and couldn’t resist either the 14-hour braised beef and ale pie or the steak for mains – although the harissa cauliflower came a very close second for me.
The wine list is divided into helpful categories: light and fresh or richer and food-friendly for whites, and fruity and elegant or full bodied and bold for the reds. We went for the ‘approachable and frisky’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo – you can never go wrong with a good Italian red.
When our starters arrived, again it was the attention to detail that made them extra special. My terrine was firstly a feast for the eyes; a beautiful mosaiced slab with thick chunks of tasty chicken and ham, a good mustard hit, and a moreish, not-too-rich remoulade. Best of all, none of it was spoiled by being fridge-cold. Other places should take note. The king prawns had a gentle chili heat and were served with warmed, sweet cherry tomatoes on a hunk of toasted sourdough. The cooking juices had been spooned over the top to ensure the bread soaked up all that fabulous flavour.
Expectations were high for the mains, and they were more than met. The Bear & Ragged Staff clearly know what they are doing when it comes to good food. My steak cut like a dream. Expertly seasoned, I could nitpick and speculate that it was slightly more to the medium-rare than the rare I had asked for but to do so would be mean as it was one of the tastiest steaks I’ve ever had, accompanied by a generous dollop of fresh, lightly dressed watercress. Sprightly, peppery and so much more than just a garnish. The chips (because of course there were chips) were hot, crisp and thickly cut. There was a choice of sauces, and I went bearnaise which was tarragon-rich and yummy but must confess to dipping most of my chips in the gravy which accompanied the pie. I’m not really a gravy gal, so this is a combo that had hitherto left me cold, but with that gravy and those chips I couldn’t get enough.
The pie also came with a mound of creamy mash and a pile of greens with just enough bite to add a nice bit of texture. The crisp, buttery pastry was a cut above any standard pub pie, as was the tender beef which filled it. In fact, it was so good that I made a note to double check the price on the menu. At just under £20, it was also phenomenal value for food of this calibre.
After a pause for digestion, we turned our attention to the pudding menu which offered just as much temptation as the main. I couldn’t resist the tarte tatin, a sticky caramel-drenched delight of a dessert served warm with proper vanilla ice cream. Total decadence. We also tried the rhubarb and stem ginger cheesecake: a hugely successful medley of tart rhubarb, citrussy ginger, and chunks of sweet crumble.
After a supremely comfortable night’s sleep, breakfast the next morning was just as successful – and in our case, just as indulgent. Honestly, though, with food this good I would defy anyone not to make the most of it. Feeling a bit bad about our meat feast the night before we opted for the vegetarian full English (amazing veggie haggis!) and a pancake stack. Ok, the pillowy pancakes came with maple syrup and a side of crispy bacon, but when you see that combination on a menu you have to order it, right? I certainly have no regrets.
As with dinner the night before, the quality of all the ingredients was exceptional and the provenance (where relevant) is clearly indicated on the menu, from the B Corp certified Union Coffee – good and hot – to the Chapel & Swan smoked salmon, which is served with scrambled eggs.
I guess the true test of any review has to be whether or not I’d go back on my own dime. I have to say, the answer is a resounding yes. Summer evenings in the beer garden and the opportunity to revisit that seasonally changing menu? I’m in.
The Bear & Ragged Staff, Appleton Road, Cumnor OX2 9QH bearandraggedstaff.com
