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Review: Broadwick Soho

Divine Decadence

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Soho has long been known as the coolest place to hang out in Central London and visitors of any stripe will find their own Soho haunts. Its nightlife is the stuff of legend; the West End’s famous theatres are within easy reach; the foodie scene is diverse and enticing; a vibrant, inclusive and bohemian energy still lingers; and any shopper will be spoiled for choice between the big brands on nearby Oxford Street, the posh stores which line Regent Street and its environs, and the buzzy indie stores in and around Carnaby Street. They may now have be joined by global chains like Adidas and Abercrombie and Fitch, but there are still plenty of options to browse.

Five-star independent hotel, Broadwick Soho, rises from the corner of Broadwick and Berwick Street. At ground level, passers-by will notice the red awning over outdoor seating at the hotel’s bistro, Bar Jackie. Those with an eagle eye may notice the glossy pink front door, which hints at the sweet spot between tradition and flamboyance which defines the space inside. Take the time to look upwards, above street level, and you’ll be rewarded by several stories of Art Deco-inspired architecture housing the 57 bedrooms. These culminate in Flute, the bar with its own roof terrace overlooking the iconic features of London’s old-meets-new skyline. The Wheel, Canary Wharf and Nelson’s Column are all visible from this vantage point, but I’m getting ahead of myself as this particular view is only afforded to those who slip inside.

We were greeted by a cheery member of the reception team who happily confirmed that, yes, the painting on the wall behind the marble desk was indeed an original Bacon. In fact, the hotel’s art collection could make a feature in its own right: we spotted (amongst other treasures) sketches by Andy Warhol, sculpture by William Turnbull, the lifts are lined in bespoke Missoni silks, and throughout there are ceramics by Michaela Gall – all of which complement, clash, contrast and co-habit with the rest of the sublime décor.

As we were slightly early, we were shown into residents lounge (The Nook) to wait. The interior of the building has the familiar structure of Georgian townhouse but the effect of walking into this salon felt like entering into Wonderland, with its clever use of mirrors, vintage Murano chandeliers, honey-toned lighting and vibrantly upholstered seating. As we were browsing the bookshelves and considering the record collection, the super friendly Duty Manager Delia came to tell us our room was ready.

We were shown into one of the hotel’s Junior Suites where the giddy sense of delight and discovery continued. By this point, we should probably have become more accustomed to the sheer prettiness of the hotel, and the dramatic use of chiaroscuro to create an almost surreal, cinematic ambience, which has the effect of making you feel like you are a world away from central London and so also far, far removed from everyday concerns and cares.

The tricky thing about writing a review of somewhere this fabulous is that the urge to tell you about all the lovely things is overwhelming, but I have to be aware of my word count as there is a lot to mention. Decorated in pink and green (undoubtedly the best colour combo), our home for the night boasted (almost) floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Berwick Street’s famous market and beyond. Pale blonde parquet floors, full length Murano-trimmed mirrors, a knee-high elephant sculpture (elephants are a motif here) doubling as a well-stocked minibar.

The marble bathroom with its ginormous rainfall shower was crammed with goodies from Ortigia Sicilia, and it shouldn’t be a surprise to hear the tech is equally considered. The huge, framed mirror was in fact a supersize tv, the hairdryer was a Dyson, and there was a fully loaded iPad replete with information about the hotel and the surrounding area. It also gave access to Spotify playlists (very cool), pre-recorded meditations for those seeking respite (very soothing) and guided workouts for those feeling more energetic (very instructive). If you were looking for other ways to… relieve any tension, there was even a Pleasure kit for guests who hadn’t, um, come prepared, shall we say? And, while thoughts are on bed-related matters, let me tell you the bedlinen is Frette – if you know, you know. The best of the best. Creamy and dreamy, and coupled with pillow-top mattresses, guests are all but guaranteed a luxuriously deep night’s sleep.

(Not to skip ahead, but the turn down service is also carried out with extraordinary levels of care and attention. All our shizzle was ordered and neatened, glasses propped upright on a logo’d glasses cloth, cables tidied and secured, and each individual item of makeup lined up and standing to attention. Truly, as a guest at Broadwick Soho you feel as if your every need has been anticipated, even those you never knew you had.)

Before dinner, our need was for cocktails, so we headed up to Flute. The room is dominated by a mirrored marble bar, the atmosphere is buzzing and the music is loud and joyful. This is a place where people come to play. Of the Signature Cocktails, we started with The Good Liar – like a traditional Negroni but on steroids – and The Act. Based around Mezcal and Tequila with notes of watermelon, Italian bitters and chili, it was long, smoky and yet refreshing. Both slipped down all too easily, and so, sticking with the smoky notes, our next picks were The Krays and The Phantom of Soho. Sherry-based, and therefore ideal as an aperitif before venturing down for dinner at Dear Jackie, the opulent Italian restaurant at basement level.

Once again, music sets the tempo here and the beats reflect the dark intimate feeling of the space. It’s all very dolce vita, but I have to say, for all the moody lighting and seductive saturated scarlet walls, dining at Dear Jackie is above all hugely fun and more than a little bit naughty. When our absolutely delightful sommelier murmured that we surely must start with a glass of champagne, we could only agree and were very happy to leave ourselves in her capable hands for our remaining wine order.

We started with beef carpaccio; slivers of rare beef, drizzled with anchovy mayo, grated pecorino, sharp radicchio, pickled red onion and crispy curls of sweet potato. Keen to try the pasta, my companion opted for the ravioli, stuffed with duck and smothered in a silky truffle sauce which we both mopped up with a side order of doughy focaccia.

We each had a glass of crisp Soave to accompany this first course before moving on to an elegant and well-balanced Rosso di Braida. This proved a great choice for our mains of Blythburgh pork chop, and a slab of meltingly soft, flaky Atlantic halibut, served with sea vegetables, juicy plump mussels and broad beans. The chop was enormous – in fact, all portions are generous. The tender, juicy meat filled a dinner plate, leaving room only for a dollop of zingy salsa verde. Strictly speaking, no more was needed but the rosemary fried potatoes were too good to pass up.

We couldn’t resist a portion of the tiramisu to round off what had been an undoubtedly extravagant night of indulgence. This was served old-school, in a glass with a thick dusting of bitter cocoa powder to offset the creamy layers of sweetness and booze-soaked lady fingers. After dinner the night was ours: to go back up to Flute where a mirror ball by the DJ’s decks suggested the prospect of late-night dancing; to take a digestif into The Nook and spin our own vinyl; or even to head out into the heart of Soho.

Breakfast is served in Bar Jackie, the street level café. It’s another triumphant clash of pattern and period: 50s Formica, Cubist detail, a glossy ceiling reflecting the beam of a brasserie-style lamp and Sicilian-style ceramic heads lining the top of the bar.

I’m sure it won’t be a surprise to learn that here, too, the food was delicious. We kicked off with a spinach/apple/cucumber juice (light and refreshing, not too vegetal), and a carrot juice (with a hefty punch of turmeric to wake up the tastebuds). Then a Full English, which was faultless. All the correct components were present, packing in tons of flavour and leaving zero greasy residue.

Standard check out time is midday, which meant our morning felt unrushed. In all, I think we were in the hotel for just over 20 hours. However, when the time did come for us to head back outside into normal life, I can genuinely say that I felt as though I had been away for much longer. Refreshed, restored and ready to (reluctantly) get back to reality.

During July and August, Marrakesh’s iconic luxury boutique hotel El Fenn has taken up residency at Flute. The collaboration is described as “a sanctuary for the creative community, fusing maximalist textures and inspired Moroccan dining with Soho Spirit”. In addition to influencing the design and the food and drinks menus, there will be art talks and a curated selection of DJs bringing North African sounds, plus live performances. For more information, go to Instagram (@broadwicksoho) or check out the What’s On section on the hotel’s website.

With the exception of the Nook, all of the dining areas and bars at Broadwick Soho welcome non-residents, and the hotel also offers an extensive calendar of cultural events and happenings.

Rooms start from around £525 for bed and breakfast. For more information, visit broadwicksoho.com.

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