There are those who think Valentine’s Day is a commercial monstrosity (the love grinches) and those who believe – as I do – that love is what makes the world go round and why complain about dedicating a day to celebrating love in all its forms? The Rooftop Restaurant at the Ashmolean are serving up a Valentines feast this year with a special evening opening. I went for a preview tasting with my daughter – so a Galentines rather than Valentines, but no less of a treat.
There are many things to love about the restaurant at the Ashmolean, not least the fact they serve Hundred Hills English sparkling wine by the glass, so we had no hesitation in agreeing happily to our server’s suggestion of starting proceedings with a glass of ‘bubbles’. After clinking glasses and admiring the view, we looked over the menu which is clearly seasonally-led.
Thankfully, it’s not overly lengthy, and offers just the right amount of tough choices: pickled heritage beetroots or smoked mackerel pate to start? Chicken cassoulet or Vegan shepherd’s pie as main? Decisions, decisions. We eventually opted for the beetroot plus a pork, apple and sage terrine on the understanding that we would go ‘halfsies’ on each. When they were brought to our table and we explained we were splitting them between us, two side plates were quickly produced without us having to ask. I’m an inveterate sharer when I’m eating out and I think this is the first time I haven’t ended up wrangling half-eaten plates of food across the table.
It may seem fairly minor, but it is just one example of the impeccable service we enjoyed throughout. Everyone we spoke with was warm, welcoming and friendly, and really made us feel that our enjoyment was of the utmost importance. In fact, enjoyment levels were topping the scales all round. The Rooftop restaurant is the point where Town meets Gown in Oxford and has a truly charming ambience which makes spending time there feel special. It’s a beautiful light-filled space by day, but at night (or even on a grey winter day when the sun is struggling to break through the clouds) the lighting has been well considered to make the room feel cosy and intimate. Moreover, the clientele are overwhelmingly fashionably urbane types. If it was a club, I’d love to be a member.
The food itself is similarly stylish: the sweetness of the pickled beetroot spoke to the candied walnuts also on the plate, with the more earthy notes enhanced by a scattering of delicate red chard leaves and finished off with the sweet-sour creaminess of whipped goats cheese. Equally successful was the terrine, which had been wrapped in smoked bacon for a salty savoury power-punch of flavourful meat. The accompanying fennel slaw had wisely been dressed in an apple cider vinaigrette (rather than mayo) but arguably the star of the show was the generous dollop of smoky tomato chutney. Both starters were beautifully balanced, with an artistry on a par with some of the great works on the walls of the galleries below. (Yes, if you’re wondering I am indeed very pleased with myself for coming up with that line).
Despite opting for a pork as a starter, the promise of slow roasted pork belly proved too tempting for my daughter and I’m glad because she’s a dear girl and was happy to let me try the meltingly soft meat in a tasting fork loaded up with sinfully rich celeriac remoulade and tangy apple sauce. The plate was garnished with crispy shredded leek which packed in more flavour than you might expect from a crisped shard. All the winter indulgence your soul could crave. By contrast, my pan-fried sea bass was light and delicate, allowing me to order my side of fries with impunity. The fish was delicious, served on top of a bed of saffron leeks and dill-scented celeriac. Another masterclass in balance.
We finished with a heart-shaped panna cotta exclusive to the Valentine’s menu, which I’d say was sized to share but others may disagree. Rich, creamy and satisfyingly wobbly, we eagerly spooned it up along with the accompanying pops of fresh passionfruit, flakes of toasted coconut and a ginger spiced crumb. And the final touch? Two flat whites, each with a heart incorporated into the coffee’s crema by the hand-poured velvety steamed milk.
The Rooftop Restaurant at the Ashmolean by Benugo is open from 11am for drinks and pastries. Lunch is served between 11.30am-3.30pm and Afternoon Tea is available between 11.30am-4pm. On Saturday 14 February the restaurant will be hosting a special Valentines evening with live jazz and seatings starting at 5.30pm until 8pm. All diners will be invited to select from the a-la-carte menu and enjoy a complimentary cocktail.
For further information and to book a table, visit ashmolean.org/café-and-restaurant
