Oxfordshire and its surrounds are famous for outstanding food and hospitality: from farms, growers and markets to cafes, pubs and restaurants. We are delighted to have the chance to feature some of the very best.
The Kings Head can be found in the heart of Cirencester, with its elegant pale sage frontage grandly delineating a stretch of Market Place. Recently taken over by Brakspear, we knew the pints would be good and the new owners have been busy refurbishing and refreshing the public spaces. Clearly the locals approve because when we pushed open the doors early on a Friday evening the busy bar area was already rammed with a convivial atmosphere that had the instant effect of making us feel like we had stumbled into the place to see and be seen.
We went straight to Reception to check into our room and say hello to the General Manager Matthew Cain, who offered to show us around before we sat down for dinner. First, though, and clutching our welcome gift of a freshly baked cookie each, we went up to our generously proportioned bedroom to leave our bags and have a quick nose-around. First impressions were strong. The room decor is relaxed, elegant and thoughtfully designed with the odd quirky accent. I’d sum it up as classic English eccentric. In addition to a squishy sofa, there was a huge and very comfortable bed, and in the large bathroom there was plenty of Bramley toiletries as well as two fluffy bathrobes. There are plenty of other thoughtful details like plug sockets positioned by the bed, lots of hanging space, and an excellent choice of teas and coffees on the hospitality tray.
Back downstairs and Matthew was waiting to show us the tardis-like qualities of this impressive former coaching inn. Who knew that within its walls there was a beautiful ball-room sized space full of Georgian architectural features with sash windows onto the front? Or that on the top floor, another large public space (with its own bar) opened onto an enormous roof terrace garlanded with twinkling lights?
Downstairs is a brick-vaulted ceilinged-cellar for private dinners or other small events, again with an adjoining bar. You’ll find the gym and a spa at basement level although the latter was being refurbished when we visited in February.
Impressed, we returned to the ground floor where the bar was still packed, with tables of diners enjoying their meals. We were eating in the Brasserie, a comfortable space in which great acoustics mean the roar of the bar doesn’t carry through. Head Chef Mathew Price oversees a modern British menu which offers a good choice of elevated pub classics (Wagyu burger – yum yum!) alongside fabulous choices from the grill, and other innovative dishes: all using local, sustainably sourced, seasonally relevant produce.
We were seated by a glass wall which looks onto the neighbouring Corn Hill Arcade – fun for people spotting – and presented with the menu. I’m a sucker for gravlax, and this was served in an earthy beetroot cure, thickly cut, topped with crispy capers, and a generous dollop of sour cream. My partner-in-crime couldn’t resist the prospect of hand-picked Devonshire crab which came cut through with pops of chilli and lime making it the seafood equivalent of a Spicy Marg. Talking of drinks, we went with the house red which proved a perfect choice.
Both of the starters were fresh and punchy, whetting our appetites for what was to come. I ordered from the Grill menu, and my slow-roasted pork belly came with a choice of two sides. I chose the maple and mustard glazed carrots, all tangy and sweet and an excellent braised red cabbage – slightly al dente with spicing perfectly on point. However, the hero for me was the caramelised apples with their hint of wood smoke. My guest went with that night’s special: a Barnsley chop of succulent well-seasoned lamb, which came with crispy kale and buttery new potatoes. The accompanying sauce was thick and flavourful, cut through with fresh mint oil.
Good food and eager, friendly staff made the evening such a pleasure that we lingered over a shared dessert of tiramisu. Portions throughout are so generous that we weren’t able to manage a dessert each, and so the rum baba or Cotswold cheese board will have to wait until next time.
The next morning we planned to suck the marrow out of our trip to Cirencester. I was determined to leave no fabulous independent shop undiscovered, and my guest was equally intent of learning all about the town’s Roman history. Both of us were eager to explore the Holy Trinity Church and all of this is my way of explaining that despite the wonderful dinner, we returned to the Brasserie after a great night’s sleep to take full advantage of the comprehensive breakfast included in our overnight stay. Walking through the bar we were once again struck by the number of locals using it as a meeting point for coffee or pastries. Once settled at our table we gorged on fresh fruit from the buffet before thoroughly enjoying a Full English served to my specification (no to beans, yes to black pudding and poached eggs please) which had not a speck of superfluous grease on the plate. It was so good (still thinking about that bacon…) that I wasn’t at all interested in my guest’s three-egg omelette with smoked salmon and cream cheese, cooked to order and by all accounts delicious.
A final admission. We thought it our duty to just sample the patisserie. We fully intended to share one between us, but they were so pillowy and delicious we went for one each. I don’t know what words I could possibly add to that. In short, The Kings Head is an absolute pleasure and I’m already looking forward to a return visit to check out that relaunched spa.
The Kings Head, 24 Market Place, Cirencester, Gloucestershire GL7 2NR. To book call 01285 700900, or visit kingsheadcotswold.co.uk
Recipe: Tuna Niçoise
One of Mathew’s favourite ingredients is sustainably sourced fish (which is delivered daily from Devon, direct to his kitchen). “Almost every country in the world has its own way of serving fish and seafood and Salad Niçoise, an absolute classic originally from the southern French city of Nice, is one of my all-time favourites,” he says. “I’m using fresh tuna steaks and a bright, fresh lemon dressing to elevate this simple, yet delicious go-to salad that’s packed with flavour, colours and textures”.
Ingredients (for one, scale up as appropriate)
1 Tuna Steak
100g Baby Gem Lettuce
50g Green Olives
100g French Beans
100g New Potatoes
10g Anchovy Fillets
40ml Lemon & Basil dressing
40g Cherry Tomatoes
1 Soft Poached Egg
Salt & Pepper to Season
Method
- Blanch and cook new potatoes and French beans
- Wash and pick baby gem lettuce
- Slice olives, cherry tomatoes and cooked new potatoes in half
- Poach an egg
- Add all ingredients to a bowl apart from the tuna and the egg
- Season the tuna with salt and pepper and sear in a hot pan for 30 seconds on each side.
- Place all the salad ingredients in the base of the dish and then place the seared tuna on top and garnish with the soft poached egg
Lemon Basil dressing
Ingredients
100ml fresh lemon juice (about 1–2 lemons)
10g or 2 teaspoons lemon zest
100ml extra virgin olive oil
10g clove garlic, minced
10g fresh basil leaves, finely chopped
1 teaspoon honey (or maple syrup)
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Add all ingredients to a bowl and combine using a whisk. If you have a blender you could use that to blend all the ingredients together.
