Oxfordshire and its surrounds are famous for outstanding food and hospitality: from farms, growers and markets to cafes, pubs and restaurants. We are delighted to have the chance to feature some of the very best.
My recent lunch at Pit Kitchen wasn’t the first time I’d eaten the delicious fire-cooked food at the foodie-spot originally created by Adam and James, brothers with a dream of bringing Dalston flavours and energy to the heart of the Cotswolds. Their first venture, a pop-up just outside Chipping Norton, coincided with my first week as editor of this magazine and I was invited to the launch. Standing at the top of a field with panoramic views of the surrounding countryside as the sun was setting and the cocktails were free-flowing I wondered if I’d just scored the best job in the world. Five years on, I’d say we’ve all grown into our roles very happily. OX has gone through a change of publishers, and Pit Kitchen has also had a change at the top with Chef Director George Oren joining Adam, Managing Director at the helm after James's departure a few years ago. And they've also moved – a little further north to a permanent site in Todenham, just over the county’s border with Gloucestershire.
Driving up the A44 it was apparent that the Cotswolds had fully understood its brief (which is to be the prettiest place in the country). Rolling hills, brimming hedgerows, pastures, fields and golden-stoned buildings as far as the eye can see. Turning left, we easily found the barn on Todenham Manor Farm where Pit Kitchen is now based, but please note access is not through the farm’s main entrance but clearly signed in its own right.
The first thing that hit us was the smell from the fire, seasoned with spice blends to get your mouth watering. Then the music and the buzz of conversation. Seating is mainly inside the three-sided space; long bench tables designed for sharing with friends, family or other diners. The beams are garlanded with hops, and fresh flowers in repurposed food tins dot the tables. On a sunny Saturday lunchtime, the space is hopping. Filled with happy people of all ages and (from the looks of it) types. The Cotswolds set are clearly out in full but so too, are the tourists, travellers and foodies who have heard the rumours and come to check out this gastro-destination for themselves. Our immediate first impression is that this is a very special not-so secret spot and all the cool people have already got the memo.
The open kitchen is to the side of the weather-proofed space, with the bar stemming from it and a fast-moving queue of people placing orders. There are also outside benches (which – unlike those inside – aren’t bookable although booking is very definitely advisable if you’re travelling any distance). There’s also a huge fire pit which gets lit each evening when the tempo changes and the party vibes intensify.
We were greeted and settled onto a table at the edge of the barn – thankfully shady as it was a glorious but blistering sunny day – with a view looking out over wildflowers heading down to a wooded copse, beyond which those rolling hills were undulating most beautifully. Picking up a couple of menus on the way, we browsed our options while sipping our drinks (Lucky Saint zero alcohol for him, a pint of the excellent Kicking Goat Craft Cider for me, although I was sorely tempted by the cocktail list…
The laid-back, personable staff were more than eager to advise us on our choices from the menu which ranges from nibbly bits (olives, dips and house crisps etc) to sides, sharing plates for the table, and flatbreads groaning with generous amounts of smoked paprika pork, Persian spiced chicken thighs or grilled oyster mushrooms.
We opted to split a flatbread, try each of the plates and add on a side. (And no, we did not need any dinner that night). First up, the plates for the table which are all are served hot and fresh, so our side of griddled courgette salad sitting on a bed of yoghurt and herby zhoug (if you’re unfamiliar, think Middle Eastern pesto) provided a cool contrast.
The grilled halloumi plate is a full slab of squeaky cheese, burnished by the flames and dripping in honey with tantalisingly bitter notes from lemon and fennel. Crispy Baharat lamb rolls are long and deep-fried, served with a mint sauce and yoghurt, like a magnificent (and unexpected) marriage of a kebab with a spring roll. The third plate, sweetcorn and green chilli fritters, is served with a sweet green pepper ketchup. This was so delicious that, despite the fact I have a long-standing aversion to bell peppers, I kept going back for more. Drew, the super friendly front-of-house manager, confides in me that he’s so addicted he’s been known to take bottles of the stuff home with him.
If I’m truthful, this would probably have been more than enough to send us on our way with full bellies and happy smiles, but to have missed out on the flatbread would have been a sorry loss. I’d watched the chefs roll them out when queuing at the bar, so I knew they’d be fresh, but I hadn’t realised quite how generous the toppings would be. Mounds and mounds of spiced pork collar, a fatty cut of meat making it ideal for the grill. Prepped to perfection there was not so much of a glimpse of fat or sinew remaining by the time it hit the plate, just meltingly soft, tender meat. It comes drizzled in tomato mayo and layered with a fresh fennel slaw. Matchstick fries add crunch and ensure every single mouthful has both satisfying flavour and gratifying mouthfeel.
Dessert options – charred strawberries and a chocolate cremeux – are available, but by the time we’d cleaned our plates, we were done. I spotted two very clever people leaving with a pair of camping chairs in hand and can only imagine they were planning to sleep off their lunch in the late afternoon sun. What a great idea. Along with ‘save room for pudding’ and ‘try out the cocktails’, I’m adding it to my list of things to remember for my next visit.
For opening times and to reserve your table, visit pitkitchen.co.uk.
Keep mealtimes cool by serving George Uren’s fabulous Chive Tzatziki, using his exclusive recipe, kindly shared here for OX readers.
Pit Kitchen Chive Tzatziki
Salted Cucumber
One large or two medium cucumbers
2 tsps table salt
Grate whole cucumbers on the coarse grater blade in the blender. Add salt and mix thoroughly.
Refrigerate at least 30 minutes, up to two hours. Squeeze/strain out excess water by hand. (This will store for up to two days before adding to the Tzatziki Mix.)
Herb Pulp
A handful of fresh herbs including chives, mint and dill
Olive or pomace oil
Place herbs and oil in the blender and blitz to a coarse paste. Tip into a sieve over a container to let the oil drain and press lightly but not so hard that solids pass through. Keep back a little of the oil to use as a garnish and add the remainder to use as a garnish. Add the herb pulp to the tzatziki mix when you are ready to serve.
Tzatziki Mix
1 500 g pot of Greek yoghurt
Salted cucumber
Herb oil and pulp
Sea salt and freshly squeezed lemon juice, to taste
Just before serving, combine all ingredients and mix well. Garnish oil and enjoy.
