The first thing to mention when it comes to The Cary Arms & Spa is the stunning beauty of the setting. The panoramic vista of Babbacombe Bay is spectacular.
At 300 feet above sea level, Babbacombe Downs is officially the highest clifftop promenade in England, which explains the perilously steep descent to this former smuggling haunt dating back to the early 17th century. However, once you’ve navigated the winding road, you will be met by helpful staff who are well-used to relieving visitors of any burden. Bags are whisked away to your room, your car is taken to the designated parking area, and all you need to do is check in.
We were staying in one of the beach huts situated on the edge of the property. With its own private terrace looking out over the bay, inside the space has been designed with comfort and relaxation in mind. The aesthetic is coastal chic, and the two-level property takes the form of a living space downstairs (complete with a decent sized wardrobe, tea and coffee making facilities and a spacious bathroom with waterfall shower) and a galleried mezzanine-level bedroom. Downstairs, glass doors maximise the view, and at the upper level there’s a wee porthole through which you can see the water.
The attention to detail is generous and gratifying: we found a decanter of sloe gin and plenty of other edible treats waiting for us, plus hot water bottles, a deck of cards, robes, and even a stick of Cary Arms rock on our pillows. And it’s not just humans who will appreciate these thoughtful gestures: down at Reception canine guests will be pleased to find The Cary Arms Dog Stick Bank with plenty of decent looking sticks ready to be thrown, and in the bar there are plenty of options for doggy diners.
Having thoroughly explored our hut, we meandered back to the bar for a drink. The layout is charmingly higgledy-piggledy, built into the cliff on its different levels. There’s the main building housing the reception, the bar, guest rooms and a gorgeously cosy residents lounge with books, games, binoculars, and a pool table. From there it’s up a flight or so to the spa, and outside you’ll find a series of terraces which take you down to the beach. We took our pints to one of these to enjoy an unparalleled view of the sun’s rays dancing on the calm waters of the bay. Glasses drained, we found ourselves picking our way down to the shore where we bumped into two of the chefs foraging for the evening meal.
Food is served in the bar or its adjoining conservatory restaurant or, indeed, outside. Like the coves in the surrounding cliffs, the Cary Arms is full of discreet nooks, meaning plenty of privacy. Book ahead, and you might even nab the outdoor Captain’s Table, or parties might like to take advantage of the separate Wheel House.
We were more than happy to be dining in the bar with its rustic stone walls, beams (which could doubtless tell a tale or two), and warming fire. The food here is fabulous and clearly attracts a local crowd, willing to brave the descent (and subsequent ascent) for the reward of a good meal. We started with a smoked haddock scotch egg, which was oozy in its centre and encased in a herb-rich crispy crumb. We also tried the scallops, hot from the grill and perfectly seared, served with shards of crisp pancetta and earthy pea shoots.
For mains, we opted for a slice of an exceptional chicken pie which was accompanied by a sinfully good slab of dauphinois potato, swimming in pool of rich dark gravy. The Catch of the Day was plaice; simple, fresh and soft, served over roasted new potatoes and with a warm tartare sauce, all punchy with tiny capers. Both plates were well-balanced, portions were on point, and each dish showcased the quality of the locally sourced ingredients.
Breakfast the next day was equally impressive, and again, the use of fresh, seasonal ingredients sourced mainly from the local area paid dividends. We happily lingered over a Full English while we read the papers with a cafetiere of coffee and then planned our day. As a dedicated Christie-phile I was tempted by one of nearby Torquay’s Agatha-inspired walking tours, or even a visit to nearby Galmpton the writer’s holiday home, which is now managed by the National Trust. There are also plenty of walks, beautiful gardens and historic market towns and villages to explore. However, we had a visit to the Spa booked in and so that really only left room for a walk along the Bay and a trip up the funicular railway to wander around St Marychurch. Walking back to the hotel we were delighted to see much-loved local resident, Sammy the Seal, having his afternoon swim; an experience which went some way to mitigating our disappointment at not seeing the regular dolphin pod who opted against making an appearance.
The Spa at The Cary Arms
The award-winning spa at the Cary Arms is perched on its top tier and so boasts a seemingly endless ocean view. There’s a sun trap terrace outside, with comfortable loungers to allow guests to soak up the rays, and the wrap-around glass frontage means the magnificence of the outdoors is clearly visible from within. Inside you’ll find a hydrotherapy pool; a sauna; a steam room; and an experience shower with a choice of cooling Highland mist, warm tropical monsoon; and freezing arctic rainfall. It’s not a huge space, so guests need to book their slot, and numbers are limited to six at a time, which feels like the right amount to allow a feeling of exclusivity and privacy.
The treatment menu is equally well considered, with options ranging from skin analysis, detox and facials, to invigorating and/or relaxing massages. There are special treatments for pregnancy and (at the other end of the spectrum) menopause. Add-ons include use of the Spa’s truffle body massage oil, hot stone massage and CBD treatments – and there’s always the option of including a glass of Champagne while you relax and let the experts do their work.
I was booked in for two treatments, the Drift Away massage and a one-on-one Sound Therapy session. The first is a full body treatment in which the mediterranean oils of TempleSpa products both scented the room and helped calm my mind, encouraging all thoughts of workaday stress to quieten. For one heavenly hour I yielded to a state of total ease, and by the end of the session I felt looser. All my aches and pains had been kneaded away.
The Sound Therapy session is conducted by Holistic Voice Therapist, Sound Healer and founder of Hum For Your Life, Carolina Baranski. If that sounds a bit woo-woo, I can only advise you to open your mind and I promise you will feel better for it. My time with Carolina verged on the transcendental. First, Carolina herself is warm, friendly and clearly a deeply compassionate soul who has total faith in her capacity to treat. I’m already a huge fan of sound baths and have the utmost confidence in their capacity to heal. It makes perfect sense to me that as our bodies are composed of around 60% water, the vibrations make a tangible impact. The crystal bath was then followed by a sound therapy session in which Carolina recorded my voice to analyse its notes and used the accompanying graph to identify where rebalancing was required. After the session she sent me a recording of my healing note and I have been listening to it daily ever since, humming as I go to encourage my own mini vibration reset.
To find out more about Carolina’s revolutionary approach and to book your own session, visit humforyourlife.com. The one-on-one session I enjoyed requires pre-booking with one week’s notice and includes use of the spa facilities. The Spa’s other treatments can be booked direct at caryarms.co.uk.
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Dinner was Brixham fish and chips, back in the bar area where Piano Pete was tinkling the ivories to add to the already convivial atmosphere. We all know that a chip supper by the sea is a non-negotiable and this didn’t disappoint. Crunchy beer batter, smashed peas, loads of tartare sauce and outstanding chips. Afterwards, we retired to the residents’ salon for a game of pool before returning to our cosy hut for a second night of falling asleep to the soft lull of waves breaking on the shore.
Once you’ve settled in to The Cary Arms & Spa, you might feel a distinct disinclination to leave but there is plenty in the surrounding area to tempt you out of this idyllic spot, although I suspect that if we hadn’t booked on to a Guided Tasting at a nearby Devon winery we might have tried to claim squatter’s rights. However, we had a date with the grape, and so with heavy hearts we drove the half hour or so to our next destination.
Sandridge Barton
I’ve been lucky enough to go to a few wine tastings in my time, but each time I learn something new. I was already aware that the change in the UK climate was producing some excellent English sparkling wine but was fascinated to learn that it was the combination of limestone and volcanic rock which makes Sandridge Barton so perfectly situated for its purpose. It also benefits from a microclimate created by its proximity to the Dart, making it virtually frost-resistant and ensuring healthy air flow.
Matthew, who led our session, was great at sharing his enthusiasm and his knowledge – and was equally generous when it came to pouring the different wines we were encouraged to taste. There was an unfermented white wine in which the sugar hadn’t fully yeasted, making it taste like a grown-up elderflower cordial, and an unfiltered Pinot Noir which was vegetal and full-bodied. The sparkling wine was light, refreshing and crisply acidic on the palate. Matthew suggested it was best served with fish and chips to counter any oiliness on the palate, but we were invited to sample the wine alongside a platter of Sharpham cheeses – also made on site. All of these goodies are available to buy in the shop, and I, for one, left with a bottle in the boot plus a couple of wedges of their irresistibly creamy sheep cheese.
After a taste-testing nibble, we moved onto to the final stop on our Devonshire odyssey, ROAM. A few steps across the courtyard saw us take our seats at this gem of a restaurant which sits within Sandridge Barton’s estate and is recommended in this year’s Michelin guide.
For all its many plaudits, the vibe is laid back and elegant: sophisticated but not pompous. We were greeted by General Manager Miles, and his enthusiasm for this, his latest culinary project, is palpable. No wonder, his past experience saw him at the helm of some of London’s most highly acclaimed restaurants, and now, at ROAM, it is clear he has found a work/life balance that suits him and is in total harmony with ‘the pace of the countryside and the flow of the Dart’.
The room was busy, but the service was impeccable. Although the Sunday Roasts looked wonderful, we were intrigued by a selection of dishes from the seasonal à la carte menu. Sweet, earthy roast beetroot with moreish (and Moor-ish) tahini and toasted hazelnuts; grilled sea trout with edamame and enormous butter beans bathed in a buttery Pinot Blanc sauce and a piquant salsa verde on the side; jewel-coloured crisp and tangy house ferments and pickles; and a rare roast beef carpaccio with salty anchoïade, crispy onions, sprinkled with mounds of grated cheese and sharp bites of fermented mushroom punching through to dazzle the palate.
Prices are more than reasonable (mid-level pub rather than exclusive eatery) and I can’t recommend it highly enough. We finished off by sharing a plate of the extra virgin olive oil chocolate mousse with sea salt. Even if you don’t think you’re a fan of chocolate mousse – or would question the use of either olive oil or salt in the dessert category – I can honestly say it was the most intensely, decadently and thoroughly chocolatey experience of my life. Our spoons were jousting with each other in a bid to scrape up the last morsel but without any acrimony as we’d been seduced into a state of pure bliss. In fact, our sense of wellbeing was so thoroughly inflated that the four-hour drive home passed in no time.
Prices at The Cary Arms & Spa start from £200 for a Superior Double. For more information or to book your stay, go to caryarms.co.uk.
To find out more about Sandridge Barton and ROAM restaurant, visit sandridgebarton.com.
